Process and machine for trimming uppers



Oct. 3, 1939.

PROCESS AND MACHINE FOR TRIMMING UPPERS G. D. MARCY' Filed Oct. 9, 1936 -155,; 34 u so o r-y I O Z6 'ia 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Oct. 3, 1 939. a MARCY 2,174,589

PROCESS AND MACHINE FOR TRIMMING UPPERS .Filed Oct. 9, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 i 5. i1 15218 9 17 13 132 32 a0 25 I Patented Oct. 3, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE PROCESS AND MACHINE FOR TRIMlVHNG UPPERS 24 Claims.

This invention consists in an improved process of trimming uppers, for example, the overlasted margin of uppers in shoes of any type in which it is necessary or desirable to present an accurately located line of trim or a trimmed opening of predetermined size or shape in the shoe bottom. The upper trimming operation as heretofore carried out has depended for its accuracy largely upon the skill and judgment of the operator, and the problem of trimming the overlasted margin to present an accurate annular edge or outline on the last bottom has never been solved prior to the present invention.

The process of my invention is of particular importance in the manufacture of single sole, smooth bottom shoes in which it is desired to compensate for the thickness of the overlasted margin of the upper by employing a filler of predetermined outline, as for example, an elevated or thickened area defined by a shoulder in the sole. Under these conditions it is very important that the trimmed outline of the overlasted margin should coincide exactly with the outline of the filler so that a flush, smooth surface may be formed in the shoe bottom. The process of my invention may be satisfactorily utilized under theusual commercial conditions of shoe manufacture to produce these important and valuable results.

In one aspect the process of my invention consists in progressively drawing the overlasted margin of the upper away from the last and into contact with an accurately shaped band knife while the latter is maintained in a condition of lengthwise movement or reciprocation. This may be accomplished without disturbing the position of any portion of the overlasted margin except the Waste material which is to be removed. This is a desirable characteristic of the process because any distortion of the upper material which is to remain permanently in the shoe is likely to cause loss of the fine lines of the last in the finished shoe and to interfere with subsequent manufacturing operations. Accordingly I propose to confine a flexible band knife for endwise or lengthwise movement in a path corresponding exactly with the outline of the opening desired in the shoe bottom and to lift or otherwise present the inner edge of the margin against the edge of the moving knife. The result of this step is easily and rapidly to sever the waste upper material and leave in the margin of the upper a clean-cut, clearly defined shoulder which may be later fitted exactly to the contour of a preformed filler.

It should be noted that the cutting operation need not be carried out by forcing the knife against the bottom of the last and using the latter as a cutting block, but that the upper material may be brought into contact with the knife edge in any manner while the latter is spaced from the last bottom. The edge of the knife is maintained in a single plane and the knife as a whole is mounted so that it may be rocked. longitudinally to accommodate the curvature of the last bottom and to be brought into position adjacent all parts of the overlasted margin.

Preferably, and as herein shown, the movable band knife is confined in its path of movement by a flexible frame having approximately the desired contour, for example, the contour of the forepart of the shoe bottom. This frame may be adjusted to accommodate shoes of different widths or styles and convenient means is pro- 20 vided whereby such adjustment may be rapidly and accurately carried out when necessary.

It may be further advisable to utilize holddown means for engaging the overlasted margin outside the cutting line and holding it se- 25 curely in place upon the last bottom against any tendency toward displacement during the trimming operation.

These and other characteristics of the process will be best understood and appreciated from the following description of a preferred manner of carrying it out, in connection with one satisfactory form of machine for the purpose. Such a machine is that selected for purposes of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, in Which- Fig. 1 is a view of the machine in side elevation showing the knife in raised or inoperative position,

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view showing the knife in operative position upon the shoe bottom,

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the machine, partly in section, on a somewhat enlarged scale,

Fig. 4 is a sectional View on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3, 5

Fig. 5 is a view in longitudinal section on the line 55 of Fig, 3,

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary sectional view illustrative of the mounting of the knife mechanism, and 50 Fig. 7 is a view in front elevation, partly in section, illustrating the manner of using the machine.

The machine includes a column I0 adjustable as to height and having an overhanging head I I in which are supported the cutting mechanism, the driving motor therefor and a gauge for the shoe. The head is extended forwardly and forked to receive a U-shaped frame 13 pivotally supported upon trunnions I 2 which extend inwardly from the arms of the head I l. The frame [3 is disposed with its open end outwardly and is arranged to swing upon the horizontal axis of the trunnions l2 through a limited angle, as will presently appear. A supplementary frame including two spaced vertical side members I4 is secured to the inner and lower portion of the frame l3, and a transverse plate 15 extends across between the lower edges of the members [4 and is recessed to receive the upper end of the casing of a motor E6, the latter being thus detachably supported for movement with the frame l3. The motor shaft is provided with a worm l1 meshing with a worm Wheel l8 fast upon a transverse shaft [9 which is journalled in the side members [4 of the supplementary frame. At either end the Shaft I9 is provided with a head and from the outer surface of the heads project eccentric studs which are set 180 apart.

It will be seen that the shaft i9 is driven continuously by the motor 16 in all positions of the frame l3 and that it is moved bodily with the motor and without disturbing the driving connection when the frame I3 is rocked upon the trunnions I 2.

Leaving the motor and the driving shaft I!) we will now pass to the cutter mechanism. This includes a guide herein shown as a frame accurately shaped to correspond to the general contour of the forepart of the shoe to be trimmed and being channel shaped in cross section, opening downwardly. The channel of the frame 25 is of the proper width to contain a thin flexible band knife 30, to confine it to movement in a predetermined curved path and to support it therein for longitudinal movement. The shape of the frame 25 is such as to confine the band knife to a shape in which its cutting edge is spaced a, predetermined distance within the contour of the last bottom. The frame 25 is held in the arms by a U-shaped holder 26. The holder is formed of thin flexible steel so that it may be adjusted by springing and the lower ends of its arms are notched to embrace the frame, but. leave clear its lower edge and that of the, knife 35. retain the frame 25 in the notched ends of the holder 26. At its upper end the holder is provided with a handle 21 for the convenience of the operator and the holder is connected to the forward ends of the arms of the frame 13 by trunnions 29. The connection between the frame 25 and the holder 26 is rigid so that the two may be rocked conveniently by the operator and easily brought from an inoperative position above the shoe-bottom as shown in Fig. l to a position in which the edge, of the knife engages the shoe bottom as shown in Figs. 2 and 7.

The frame 25 is formed of resilient material and may be adjusted for width by spreading the arms of the holder 25. This may be effected by a wedge-shaped bar 24' located between the sides of the holder 25, and having a threaded connection with the end of the handle 21. By screwing the handle 21 in aclockwise direction, the member 24 is raised and the sides of the holder 26 expanded with the frame 25, the knife 30 contained'therein and its connections with the arms of the frame l3. There will be at all times an opening between the rear ends of the frame 25 as indicated in Fig. 3 and the width of this opening wall vary in the Screws 28 serve to adjustment of the frame 25. The opening however, occurs between the inturned ends of the frame where the knife extends transversely across the inner edge of the lasted margin of the upper at a point where there is no material requiring trimming,

The side walls of the frame 25 are longitudinally slotted on opposite sides to expose the knife 30 and opposite to these slots the knife is provided with a pair of bronze eyelets 3| which form bearings for the hooked ends of a pair of eccentric rods 32, one of which is connected to each of the eccentric studs upon the heads 20 of the driven shaft l9. Below the slots in the frame the material of the frame is molded in a vertical channel to afford clearance for the eyelets when it is desired to remove or replace the knife 30.

The frame is also provided upon its outer face with a plurality of spaced vertical cylindrical bosses in each of which is mounted a spring pressed pin 35. These pins are arranged to act as hold-downs and strippers for the knife 39 during the longitudinal vibrations that might be imparted to it by the movement of the knife.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that thecutting mechanism and its driving motor are mounted as a complete unit in the rocking frame 83 and that the position thereof is governed by manipulation of the handle 21. Whenever the motor is operated the two sides of the knife 35 are moved equally in opposite directions by the eccentric rods 32 so that an endwise movement is imparted to the band knife and its edge travels in the path determined by the shape of the adjustable frame 25.

The shoe M1 to be treated may be presented in position beneath the knife upon a jack of any suitable construction, for example that disclosed in U. S. Patent No. 1,604,198 granted October 26, 1936 on an application of T. H. Seely. That jack includes a heel part 33 pivotally connected to a forepart support 44 and these are carried upon a post arranged to swing about a ball point 45. The joint itself is mounted in a bracket arm 46 which projects outwardly from the machine frame In. A treadle ll is shown with connections for locking the jack with the shoe in gauged position, but the details will not be described since they are merely incidental and not a part of the present invention.

A toe gauge 551s adjustably secured to the under side of thehead II and this may be set by the operator toposition the shoe bottom properly with reference to the cutter mechanism.

Having now described the illustrated machine, its manner of use in carrying out the process of my invention will now be explained. The particular shoe chosen to illustrate the method is a single sole cemented shoe but the process, as already noted is of wider application. The shoe is shown as lasted upon a bare last 42 with its upper and lining overlasted to form the margin 4|, the latter being stiffened and conformed to the shape of the last. It is desired to trim this margin accurately to present an opening of predetermined outline defined by a clean-cut shoulder in the upper material.

Accordingly, the frame 25 is adjusted to the required size and the gauge 50 set for the particula-r' shoe'to be treated. It is probable that interchangeable cutter mechanisms will be used for right and left shoes and that one adjustment of the frame and knife will take care of threefull sizes. The shoe is now swung forwardly on the jack until arrested by the gauge 50, the cutter being elevated as shown in Fig. 1.

The operator now sets the motor in operation and swings the handle 21 forwardly bringing the edge of the knife 3|] into contact with the margin 4| as shown in Fig. 5. In this position the knife tends to cut through that portion of the margin with which it makes contact, but the bottom of the last is not relied upon as a cutting block on account of its curvature and also on account of the fact that it may not present a continuous surface on account of having tack holes therein. On the contrary the operator may now grasp the waste portion of the overlasted margin 4| which projects inside the contour of the knife and draw this material upwardly, away from the last bottom and into contact with the edge of the moving knife. For this purpose it is convenient to employ a pair of wide nosed pliers as suggested in Fig. '7. It will be noted that the open frame affords convenient access to the material within the contour of the knife and this is also facilitated by the suspension of the frame 25 in the arms of the U-shaped holder 26. Preferably the operator will engage the waste material of the overlasted margin at one side of the shoe adjacent to the ball line where the inwardly curved end of the knife crosses the inner edge of the margin. This is a convenient point to begin the operation of lifting the margin into contact with the edge of the knife. This operation may proceed rapidly from the ball line on one side of the shoe up to the toe, and then from the ball line on the other side of the shoe again up to the toe, thus completely severing all the waste material of the overlasted margin which lies within the contour of the knife, and leaving a clean-cut opening in the shoe bottom of exactly the size and shape determined by the frame 25. In this operation the operator may rock the handle 21 to position the knife progressively to the best advantage for severing the upper material. During the trimming operation the pins 34 firmly engage the margin of the upper outside the trimming line tending to prevent its displacement and acting as strippers when the knife is elevated at the conclusion of the trimming operation. When the trimming operation is completed the jack is unlocked and swung rearwardly with the trimmed shoe which may now be removed in readiness for the ensuing shoemaking operations.

It will be noted that the eccentric rods 32 which operate the band knife 30 are connected thereto at points spaced a substantial distance apart in the knife, and that the cutting action of the knife takes place both between these points of connection and beyond them, that is to say both in the loop portion of the knife and in the end portions extending rearwardly of the shoe.

While in most circumstances it is preferable to pull the material to be trimmed against the edge of the moving knife, it would be within the scope of the invention to effect the trimming operation by movement of the knife or the shoe alone, the material to be trimmed being suitably supported for the purpose. It is believed that a flexible knife vibrating or reciprocating in a path of predetermined curvature has not hitherto been employed for trimming shoe parts in this manner.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The process of trimming the uppers of lasted shoes, which consists in progressively drawing the overlasted margin of the upper away from the last and into contact with a knife moving with its edge in a plane substantially parallel to the last bottom.

2. The process of trimming the uppers of lasted shoes, which consists in pulling the overlasted margin of the upper away from the last bottom and against the edge of a flexible knife moving longitudinally in a curved path inside the contour of the last bottom.

3. The process of trimming the uppers of lasted shoes, which consists in engaging the inner edge of the overlasted margin of an upper within the contour of a curved flexible knife and pulling it against the edge of the knife toform a cutout of predetermined shape and size in the shoe bottom.

4. The process of trimming the uppers of lasted shoes, which consists in engaging the inner edge of the overlasted margin of an upper within the contour of a curved flexible knife, pulling it against the edge of the knife, and meanwhile moving the knife longitudinally without changing its contour.

5. The process of trimming the lasted margin of a united upper and lining, which consists in forcing the material thereof against the edge of a flexible knife moving longitudinally in a curved path within the contour of the last bottom.

6. The process of trimming the uppers of lasted shoes, which consists in holding the overlasted margin against the last bottom throughout a marginal zone of predetermined width, and forcing the inner portion of said margin against the edge of a flexible knife moving with its edge in a curved path within the contour of the last bottom.

7. The process of trimming the uppers of lasted shoes, which consists in holding the overlasted margin down on the last bottom outside a line parallel to and spaced within the contour of the last bottom, and then engaging the inner edge of the overlasted margin and pulling the inner part thereof upwardly into contact with a flexible knife while the latter is moving longitudinally with its edge in a curved path overlying the last bottom.

8. The process of trimming the overlasted margin of an upper, which consists in progressively pulling the inner edge thereof away from the last bottom and severing it against a band knife moving with its edge in a plane spaced from the last bottom by the thickness of said overlasted margin.

9. The process of trimming the overlasted margin of an upper, which consists in pulling first one side of the margin and then the other against the moving edge of a band knife held in curved condition along each side of the forepart within the contour of the last bottom and thereby removing said margin in two strips converging toward the toe of the shoe.

10. The process of trimming the overlasted margin of an upper, which consists in curving a flexible band knife so that it crosses the inner edges of the margin and follows the general outline of the forepart within the contour of the last bottom, reciprocating the knife lengthwise, and then causing it to sever a waste strip from the margin in advance of said point of crossing.

11. The process of trimming the overlasted margin of an upper upon the last, which consists in shaping a flexible band knife to approximately the outline of the forepart of the individual shoe to be trimmed, reciprocating the knife lengthwise, and bringing it into contact with the margin.

12. The process of trimming the overlasted margin of an upper upon the last, which consists in rocking a flexible reciprocatory knife toward and from the last bottom, and bringing the waste edge of the margin into contact with the knife.

13. The process of trimming the margin of an upper, which consists in progressively moving the 75 margin into Contact with the exposed'edge of a flexible knife while the latter is engaged at opposite sides and vibrated lengthwise in a path of predetermined contour above the shoe bottom.

14. An upper trimming machine including a support for a lasted shoe, a curved guide frame containing a flexible knife and confining said knife at the cutting point, and means for vibrating the knife longitudinally in the frame.

15. An upper trimming machine including a support for a lasted shoe, a curved guide frame containing a flexible knife with an exposed edge, means for mounting the frame for rocking movement above the shoe bottom, and means connected with the knife at opposite sides thereof for reciprocating it longitudinally in the frame.

16, A machine for operating on shoes, which includes in its structure an elongated flexible band knife guided for movement in a path shaped like the forepart of a sole, means for moving the knife in such path, and means for presenting portions of a shoe to the cutting action of said knife.

17. A machine for trimming shoe parts, which includes in its structure a curved guide, a band knife arranged to move endwise in said guide and in opposite direction at different points in the guide, operating means engaging said band knife at points where it is controlled by said curved guide, and means for presenting a shoe part to the cutting action of the guided knife.

18. A machine for trimming shoe parts, which includes in its structure a curved guide member, a band knife arranged to move endwise in said guide and to be conformed substantially to its curvature, said band knife having a space between its ends and having operating connections at points located substantially within its ends, and means for presenting a shoe part to the cutting action of said knife.

19. A machine for trimming shoe parts, which includes in its structure a curved guide having spaced side portions, a flexible band knife arranged to move endwise in said guide, and means for moving the knife in opposite directions in the respective side portions of said guide while cutting pressure is exerted on its rear edge by said guide.

20-. A machine for trimming shoe parts, which includes in its structure a guide member of substantial length, a flexible band knife controlled in its contour by said guide member, operating means connected to said knife at separated points in the length of the knife for vibrating it in endwise movement, and means for presenting a shoe part to the cutting action of the knife between said points of connection.

21. A machine for operating on shoes, which includes in its organization a flexible band knife, guides for guiding said knife in a path of predetermined curvature, means engaging said knife at separate points which are controlled by said guides for moving it in said path, and means for presenting portions of a shoe to the cutting action of said knife and for holding against movement the material at one side of said path.

22. A machine for operating on shoes, which includes in its structure a jack, a guide having a flexible band knife therein and being mounted for bodily movement under the control of the operator toward or from the jack, and power operated means for driving the knife.

23. A machine for operating on shoes, which includes in its structure a flexible knife guide, a flexible band knife movable in said guide, means for adjusting said guide with part of the band knife contained therein, and means for moving the band knife longitudinally within its guide in all adjustments of the latter.

24. A machine for operating on shoes, which includes in its structure a curved flexible knife guide, a flexible band knife movable lengthwise in the guide with its edge projecting beyond the guide, and means for adjusting the guide and blade simultaneously and holding the guide in positions of different curvature.

GROSVENOR D. MARCY. 

